This is a very special post because Isabella wanted to share her thoughts about our next destination herself. She felt so strongly that Fort Langley was a key destination that she is sharing this journal entry.
Fort Langley once was a trading fort. The settlers who lived there would exchange things with the First Nations people. The First Nations people would have furs, fish and cranberries which they traded for metal tools, blankets and rope.
Today, Fort Langley is a National Historical site outside of Vancouver. Not only can you visit Fort Langley but you can you can also stay in an Otentik inside the fort. There are only 5 tents inside but we got one for two nights. Dad was so happy because he had keys to the fort!
At 5 o’clock, the fort closed so the kids staying there could go into any of the open exhibits and could bike everywhere like to the gold panning station and to the bunnies. Fort Langley was a huge play pen so I just got on my bike and said bye to mom and dad and went over to the goats.
We learned a lot about people at the fort like the cooper (he makes barrels), the steward (he makes the food) and the blacksmith (he makes the metal tools). There was also a garden and animals like bunnies, goats and sheep.
One of my favourite parts of visiting national historical sites is collecting dog tags. To get dog tags, you have to do a Parka or Explorers booklet which teaches us stuff and is absolutely fun. In this booklet, I had to be a cooper, steward, the master and a trader (carrying an enormous bundle of furs on my back).
Fort Langley, in my opinion, was the best place we ever camped.
Names Isabella gave the animals:
Goats: Talker, Walker, Soccer & Locker
Bunnies: Dots, Snowy and Snowflake
Sheep: Wooly and Mully
By the numbers:
Number of nuggets we found in the gold panning station: 4
My family had a summer cottage on Saltspring Island for 24 years. My dad used to spend a few months on the island every summer (when his television program was on hiatus) and the rest of us used to come for two weeks every July. I lost my dad when I was 17 but there’s nowhere that I have fonder memories of him than on Saltspring Island. I think of him teaching me to drive a boat, catch crabs and drive a Yamaha scooter (well before I turned 16). I have such happy memories of the place that I was terrified to go back as a tourist without a “home” to stay. Yet my desire to show the place to the girls outweighed this fear. To make it even more special, my brother flew to BC for a long weekend to be able to return with us. We rented side-by-side Airbnbs (on a different part of the island from our old cottage) and we crossed our fingers hoping that the trip would bring happy new memories and not just make us sad.
The magic of Saltspring was still there. Leif and I were reminded of all the things we loved about the place and we weren’t sad -only grateful for getting to spend so much of our childhood here. We were shocked at how much was the same after 8 years but also managed to find some new island gems.
A little about Saltspring Island
It is a relatively large island between Vancouver and Vancouver Island (you must take a ferry or float plane to get there). The island has a history of farming and it is very pastoral in appearance. In the 1960s, Saltspring became a haven for artists and hippies seeking an alternative lifestyle and this culture very much still exists on parts of the island. It became a “cottage destination” for people from Vancouver and Victoria. Impressive houses have been built on many of the waterfront properties.
A few things that I love and reasons to visit Saltspring
The ocean: Muskoka might have stunning lakes but Saltspring has the ocean (which is better!). My kids checked out a different beach each day. The girls seemed a little young to explore the open ocean but next time we’ll have them kayaking around the bays! Tidepools, spitting clams, crabbing from the pier – it is all magical. We especially loved our hike in Ruckle Park -somewhere we had never discovered in our decades visiting the island.
Farmers’ markets: I love a good farmer’s market but the Saltspring one will always be my favourite. Some years there is one market per week but currently, there are two (one for all things touristy on Saturdays and one for food on Tuesdays). Since Saltspring remains a mecca for artists, you’ll often find them selling their creations at the market so you can find everything from tie-dyed clothes to silver jewellery to Tony’s Tarts (Mike’s choice)!
A fun town to explore: When it comes to cottaging, I get antsy when there isn’t a cute town to visit because I grew up with Ganges as my example. Whether it is buying groceries, looking at galleries or shopping for a new book, Ganges is a great little town. I had fun going to all the old shops that we used to visit and checking out the new ones too. We had a great meal at the new Wild Cider (apparently it has been there for 8 years but it was new to us!). I also discovered Boogaloo Bubbywear which is my new favourite bamboo kids’ clothes brand – affordable and made in Canada.
Island Time: This is something that I often associate with the Caribbean but Saltspring has its own version of Island time. Here are a few rules that I had to teach Mike who kept saying “we can go there later”. Ignore posted opening hours because they are almost never correct. A store may say that it is open until 5 pm but it may well close at 3:30. If it is open, you should visit it now because it may well never be open again for many days. Next, do not think that things will be open because it is the weekend (i.e. the busiest time on the island). Popular places like the bakery are closed on the weekend because they do not want to deal with the crowds. Lastly, go with the flow on Saltspring. We saw a sign saying that the local camp still had spots. We ended up signing up the kids for two days which might have been their best camp of the summer. They visited with the local firefighters and learned a great deal. They had a leader named Soleil who had died her hair like a watermelon (including the black seeds). I am now going to spend the next year convincing Isabella that she cannot have watermelon hair.
Overall Saltspring was great. My brother’s visit was the highlight and we’ll miss him as we head off to the mainland again. Are we really heading east now? Yikes! P.S. Some of you may notice that we’re a little behind with the blog but I am going to publish how far behind we are so that we have pressure to catch up.
By the numbers:
Times we ate a the Treehouse Cafe: 3
David Wood Saltspring Cheese‘s consumed by Mike: 3 plus the cheese we ate while we visited the farm
How long it takes Saltspring’s fastest Fire Fighter to get dressed: 48 seconds
Number of people who went in the hot tub at Uncle Leif’s Airbnb: 2 (you can guess who they were)
Number of times we said we missed uncle Leif after he left: too many to count
Blog Posts Overdue: 7 (Vancouver, Fort Langley, Vernon, Jasper, Banff, Calgary, Dinosaurs and Grasslands)
Months ago, Paigey sat online waiting on the clock for summer camp registration to open up in Sidney. This was the week we were to benefit from those efforts. Five days of kids off on their own at summer camp while we got to enjoy all the Victoria area had to offer. It wasn’t just the kids that were excited. I relished the routine of bedtimes, wake-ups and even packed lunches. Paige was excited about the weather and lunches without crayons or kids’ menus.
As it turned out, camp was a mixed bag. The day before, we found out Julie’s class had got cut to a half-day camp due to labour shortages. In the end, it worked out for the best as her organic farming camp took place entirely in a farmer’s field. 3 hours each day in a farmer’s field is probably all she could have handled in the 30-degree heat. Plus, some great memories are from just the three of us going for lunch in the town. And then there was the kids magic show at the local library we would never have stumbled upon if we didn’t have Julie with us in the afternoon. As for the organic farming, each day Julie brought home a new vegetable from the garden. By the end of the week, I had a perfect deconstructed greek salad. She insisted each day on wearing Izzy’s straw hat calling it her “farming hat”.
Isabella’s tennis and basketball camp went off without a hitch. She hadn’t played either before and we were skeptical as to how it would turn out. Indoor tennis was manageable and, since it got quite hot, basketball which took place on pristine outdoor courts got replaced with swimming most days. Since this was BC, it meant the town had another top-notch aquatic centre that the day camps took full advantage of. The waterslide was so intense that it had a height restriction! Izzy was more than happy with her camp (waterslide) experience.
While the kids were at camp, Paige and I took care of some necessary “trip” admin. We could finally get a spot at a service centre for the Jeep and brought it in for a check-up. We had been concerned with some noises that fixed themselves but wanted our fears allayed before driving back across the country. With that taken care of, we decided to give the Jeep her first car wash of the trip. The picture makes it looks like I did a good thorough job, but the dirt is so caked onto the vehicle, it was a futile exercise.
A final note about Sidney / Victoria: We had some delicious meals (every restaurant in Sidney seems to be 4+ stars online) but we had to wean ourselves off the restaurants. In the latter half of the week, we opted for some spectacular picnics along the shore instead. Thrifty foods became my new favourite grocery store. Plus each night after our oceanside picnic, the kids would walk the pier and help crab fisherman throw back their undersized catch. We even got to share this culinary experience with Uncle Leif. Spoiler alert, we have a visitor for the next leg!
By the numbers:
Visits to the Aquatic Centre: 3
Visits to the laundromat: 4 (don’t ask)
Iphones fixed: 0 (they did not have the part so we will have to wait for Vancouver)
Friends made: 1. Isabella met a girl at our campsite who was riding a bike across BC with her family.
One of those places where the journey is better than the destination. That’s Denman Island to me. Paige and I had to fill a couple days before the kids started summer camp near Victoria so we decided on a two-night stay on Denman Island. I didn’t know anything about the place but it had availability and fit into the budget, so we gave it a shot.
It was raining when we broke camp in Tofino. We find it easier to leave a place you love when it is raining (at least emotionally easier). However, packing a wet tent sucks. It causes you to rush and amid the chaos we left behind Isabella’s bike lock. It was the first piece of gear we had “lost” on the trip. If anyone finds it, feel free to use it. The code is 61014.
Let’s start by saying 4 days in Tofino ain’t bad (even if you are not a surfer).
We woke up in the morning after our ferry to Port Hardy and blitzed to Tofino. We stopped only in Coombs to find a cute market with goats on the roof that we remembered from our last trip to Vancouver Island. Instead of a quaint market, we found a zoo of shops selling every piece of tourist junk you could find. Our ice cream hole-in-the-wall was replaced by a gelato store trying to look like a french cafe. It’s one of those dangers of going back to places you’ve been to before. Your awesome memories get replaced by new crappy ones. Oh please … do not ruin the “Mike and Paige newly in love memories” from Tofino!
We started our adventure in Tofino with a resort with a view of the beach -one night to relax, have a nice shower and prepare ourselves for camping again. We used our Best Western points (from 10 days of staying in Best Westerns earlier) which got us a free night (saving budget for Tofino dining!) We loved our beach room but we were equally excited to move to Pacific Rim campground the next day. This is probably the hardest campground in Canada to book. Reminiscent of booking early rounds of COVID vaccines, you wake up early on a special day and log in to get your place in line (in our case it was 1500 and something). We were so excited when Mike snagged one of the 114 spots.
It’s hard to forget the first time that you see Long Beach in Pacific Rim National park. Imagine a 16km strip of undeveloped beach with the backdrop of a lush emerald green rainforest. There’s practically no one on the soft sand beach and the ocean (albeit chilly) has the perfect waves for playing with the kids. The only complaint people have about this paradise is that you very rarely see the sun. Somehow we got 4 days of total sunshine and it only rained as we packed up our gear on the last morning. Michael spent hours jumping in the waves with two little girls (who only agreed to wear their wetsuits after their lips were a dark shade of purple).
Our campsite was up a trail in the rainforest with trees that seemed straight out of Cathedral Grove. Bears, cougars and wolves frequent the park and so the park staff are vigilant about keeping a BARE campsite. I had never seen anything like these little golf carts driving up and down the path ready to pounce on any left-behind water bottle or bottle of shampoo. The park staff wants to ensure that the wildlife stays very far away from people to avoid having to deal with wildlife that is not afraid of us. We heard stories of emboldened wolves a few years ago that had to be put down because they were attacking pet dogs (on leashes). We never saw any scary animals but went on a guided hike and found their tracks which kept my bear spray tight in hand when venturing out after dark.
Isabella and Julie’s tidepool obsession began here after visiting Chesterman Beach’s rocky outcrops at low tide. They saw everything from anemones, crabs, barnacles and mussels. Isabella did get a scraped arm in all the excitement (there was little chance of avoiding it) but all we heard for days after was “when can we see tide pools again?” I was sad to learn that sea star wasting disease (hadn’t heard of it) has decimated the population here. We did see sea stars but far fewer than I remember.
The town of Tofino was a welcome change after being in the Northern parts of Canada for several weeks. We were suddenly in the world of kombucha and smoothies again! We scrapped the idea of cooking at the “Bare campsite” and frequented the many restaurants instead. We had four great meals in Tofino (2 of them at Shelter). Unfortunately, red tide meant that oysters were a no-go in this area but we finally got to eat BC Salmon and crab and the kids were back in the land of kids’ meals that did not always have fries on the side (Salmon and veggies was a big hit). Having just seen bears and whales, we did not find the need to go on these tours from Tofino but we just enjoyed visiting bookstores, playgrounds and coffee shops again.
Another huge bonus about the Tofino area is the bike paths – the best of which just opened this spring. The Canadian government spent $51 million building this path which runs for 25km and took us from our campground all the way to the Tacofino parking lot (it would have taken us right into town but my riding partner was exhausted). Isabella and I rode 15km (by far Izzie’s longest ride to date). The trail was truly spectacular including features such as boardwalks and generally great infrastructure. Seems like a hefty price tag but I can definitely think of worse things on which the government has spent a fortune.
We also did go to Ucluelet which is the town on the other side of Pacific Rim Park. They have a fabulous mini aquarium which strengthened the kids’ tide pool obsession. We went here for breakfast twice enjoying the little cafes and people-watching.
By the Numbers
Score for the Parks Canada Slug presentation: 10/10 – we are still being lectured about the breathing and sensing abilities of banana slugs
Ice Creams: 3 – we were back in the world of ice cream parlours
Trips into town before finding Tacofino – the famous taco truck: 4 and we never ate there (not wanting to wait 2 hours for a taco)
Ferry Departure from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy was scheduled for 07:30. We had to be there for 05:30 (it is kind of like boarding a plane but a boat). We woke up at 04:45. We had the wherewithal to stop at Circle K to load up on snacks and water before lining up at the ferry. The kids were excited as it was their first time on a ferry and it was an enormous boat. Julie even cheered as we drove on the ramp to board. As soon as the car was put in park, they wanted to jump out of the car and explore the ferry. And that’s what they did for the first hour. Unfortunately, there were 15 more hours to go.
So with Kluane in our rearview mirror, we could begin to get excited about the next “WOW” destination of the trip, Vancouver Island. There was only one problem, we were nowhere near Vancouver Island!
First, we needed to backtrack 400km across the Yukon, then we would take a highway down the middle of B.C. and then we would cut back to the coast to the port city of Prince Rupert. It was going to be easy. The little lines on the map connected the cities, we just had to drive the road. The reality is far different. Firstly, not all highways are treated equally. Secondly, this was the first section where we really didn’t have accommodations booked. Thirdly, we were coming off the high of having stayed in one place (the Yukon) for 6 full days. And finally, we had to say goodbye to our Nan who was heading home after a short visit. As they might say on the amazing race, this was a tough leg.
We planned for Kluane National Park to be the furthest point north that we’d venture before turning south. Michael had always dreamed of going to Nahanni in the NWT but when he realized that required a float plane, he decided that Kluane was a little more realistic. We were surprised to find out that my mom also dreamed of seeing the Yukon and its rugged wilderness. She signed up to join us for this leg after flying into Whitehorse to meet us.
My mom is a seasoned world traveller who loves adventure but camping has never been her cup of tea. We were genuinely surprised when she agreed to stay in an Otentik with us at the National Park (not sure if she quite knew what she was agreeing to). While the pictures might make an Otentik seem like glamping, I can assure you that it was a rustic camping experience. There were no flush toilets within 20 km and there were a lot of bugs making it hard to be outside in the evenings. Despite the basic nature of the facilities, Kluane’s ambiance and scenery are pretty special and the camp is quirky and fun.
Every night there was a campfire chat hosted by a Parks Canada employee (with free tea or hot chocolate to stay warm). We learned about birds, mountains, moose, grizzlies and the First Nations people who co-manage the park. Kluane is also home to Canada’s highest peak (5,959-metre Mount Logan). It was unfortunately on the other side of the giant park and not visible from where we were at Kathleen Lake – a glacial blue/green lake like those in the Rockies. Michael did a polar plunge into the frigid water (something that he told us he would repeat each day but unsurprisingly did not).
A highlight for me was a river raft tour (which we thought was going to be a motorized zodiac tour) but turned out to be more like a raft floating tour. The girls put paddles in a few times as we floated down the Dezadesh river and admired the scenery. We stopped and made bannock on a small island and the girls found fresh grizzly tracks in the mud. The guide brought a dog along telling us that she’ll be sure to find and alert us to any bears before they come near. We trusted him but I watched the dog sniffing quite carefully. The guide himself was very eccentric telling us about half a dozen different lives that he had lived before becoming a guide (everything from special operations in the British military to teacher to Oxford University student).
We also took a waking tour with Lionel from Belgium – a recent Yukon transplant. We started by driving across a creek in his Toyota Rav 4 then we hiked to Alsek glacier valley. The kids had walking poles and we all jumped over creeks and small streams. Some of us (not naming names) got their feet wet! By the end of the hike, Julie was an expert creek jumper and Isabella was a seasoned pole-vaulter. In a different life, we would have just continued the hike (which veered up a spectacular mountain) but instead we turned around since Julie was approaching her 3 km limit.
Overall we felt humbled to visit this part of the Yukon and so grateful to have experienced it with Mom/Pat/Nan. We know that the kids will have lots of memories from here too. Julie still asks about having bannock again and Isabella asks when we can jump over rivers again!
1 big black bear
1 grizzly bear: I am not sure what “Kluane has North America’s most genetically diverse grizzly population” means but we were reminded often of this while we were there.
1 bat: did not eat enough of those mosquitos
1 Bald Eagle
Dahl Sheep (specks on a hill that we watched with binoculars)
A common question we get is whether we book everything in advance or if we just find places to stay as we go. It has been a mix of both but when you end up with an Airbnb as good as the one we had in Whitehorse, you come to appreciate the “book early and find the most awesome place”. We knew that my mom would be joining us for part of the time in Whitehorse so we booked a nicer place than we usually do. Even still, this place far exceeded our expectations. It was a two-bedroom penthouse condo (3rd floor but that’s high for Whitehorse) with a great kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows. It was really nice having our own space for 3 nights in a row. It made us concentrate all the more to book longer stays in one place.
The most striking thing you notice in Whitehorse is the sunset at 11 pm. Getting kids to bed is pretty challenging when 10 pm still feels like midday. The condo had blackout curtains but also had a wraparound balcony and we liked the bizarre feeling of sunlight at all hours so we rarely shut the curtains.
Whitehorse also surprised us because it felt less isolated than we would have expected. We had been driving through remote areas that felt very remote with things like exorbitant prices on fruit and 5 oil worker trucks for every car. Whitehorse did not feel remote. The grocery store had the best selection of organic and gourmet food that I’d seen since Toronto. The Kind Cafe next door to our condo offered 4 kinds of milk and “dairy” seemed to be far less popular than oat or almond milk. I even got to have an avocado toast with pomegranate, dukkah and pickled onion. Yummy.
Now on to what we did in Whitehorse. I am working to overcome my fear of bears but as we are now firmly in grizzly country, I finally bought a bear spray. Most hikers here seem to carry one so I felt justified in having one too. Hiking in and around Whitehorse is magical. Michael and Izzie did an early morning walk down the Yukon River while Julie was still asleep (not surprising since it took until midnight to get her to sleep in the “daylight”). We also did a walk on the cliffs overlooking the town and the majestic river (and for the record, it is as majestic as you imagine it to be). But the best hike of all was the guided tour we took in Miles Canyon. The Yukon Conservation Society offers these free tours and we saw a notice pinned up in the visitor centre. Given my fear of hiking around bears, I jumped at the idea of going with a group and a guide. The guides that we had were not native Yukoners (they said that the society had trouble finding locals this year due to the labour shortage) but they had just completed an intensive training course on the flora of the Yukon. They taught us to identify lots of plants and trees and the kids were in heaven soaking up the knowledge. For the rest of our time in the Yukon, Izzie and Julie would quiz us on the sunscreen properties of the trembling aspen or the way to correctly identify a lodgepole pine.
Fish Ladder: This ladder was built to help salmon who are returning to their spawning ground after a dam was built which blocked their route. It is the longest wooden fish ladder in the world. The first day that we tried to visit, we couldn’t because a beaver had decided to perch himself on the tourist boardwalk. It was a first for us -closed because of beaver! A few days later we returned and we were able to see the ladder and its workings. The Chinook salmon run is about two weeks away though so only a few lonely fish were using the ladder.
Canada Games Centre: For a travelling family, a great pool is an awesome find. I do not think that I have ever been to a better pool than this one. It had a waterslide, a sauna, a hot tub and most exciting of all a jet-powered lazy river. The kids went twice.
We also visited the Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre – a first nations spot with a collection of Native Art. Julie just loved watching artists there doing beading.
For the three days in Whitehorse, I cooked and we ate “normal for us” meals which was a treat. It made us realize that an Airbnb nice enough that I want to cook saves us in restaurant bills. However, the grocery bill does increase (as does the stockpile of things that I keep in the cooler). My cousin already told me that soya sauce might not be an item that every camper carries with them across the country. I’m glad she saw the cooler before Whitehorse when Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and other “staples” were added. Essential right?
By the Numbers:
Total Kilometres: 7556km
Bags of English Peas Consumed: 3 (along with 3 trips to the BC fruit stand)
Bear Spray Purchased: 1
Pamphlets collected at tourist information: At least 12
Number of times Mike asked if I had written “By the Numbers” while I wrote this post: 5